<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8" ?><!-- generator=Zoho Sites --><rss version="2.0" xmlns:atom="http://www.w3.org/2005/Atom" xmlns:content="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/content/"><channel><atom:link href="https://cowgirlcrafty.com/blogs/author/alanahope/feed" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml"/><title>Cowgirl Crafty - Blog by Alana Hope</title><description>Cowgirl Crafty - Blog by Alana Hope</description><link>https://cowgirlcrafty.com/blogs/author/alanahope</link><lastBuildDate>Thu, 23 Jul 2026 19:57:25 -0700</lastBuildDate><generator>http://zoho.com/sites/</generator><item><title><![CDATA[Dear Cowgirl Crafty: Is My Backing Wide Enough for Longarm Quilting?]]></title><link>https://cowgirlcrafty.com/blogs/post/quilt-backing-prep-longarm</link><description><![CDATA[How much backing fabric do you actually need for longarm quilting? A real customer question on margins and backing options, including ones that skip piecing and squaring entirely.]]></description><content:encoded><![CDATA[
<div class="zpcontent-container blogpost-container "><div data-element-id="elm_stU4IC3YQpekr7ZO77p4lw" data-element-type="section" class="zpsection "><style type="text/css"></style><div class="zpcontainer"><div data-element-id="elm_jsf5QoQhQauF0UdPgITJAg" data-element-type="row" class="zprow zpalign-items- zpjustify-content- "><style type="text/css"></style><div data-element-id="elm_tETkMSMrSe6TU_iPFddM4g" data-element-type="column" class="zpelem-col zpcol-12 zpcol-md-12 zpcol-sm-12 zpalign-self- "><style type="text/css"></style><div data-element-id="elm_ha3j0mGmTT27XKB0cJo3Ww" data-element-type="text" class="zpelement zpelem-text "><style></style><div class="zptext zptext-align-center " data-editor="true"><h1 style="text-align:left;"><p style="color:inherit;"><strong>Dear Cowgirl Crafty,</strong></p><p>My quilt backing is only 43–44&quot; wide, and my quilt will be approximately 34&quot; across when finished. Will 5&quot; of extra margin on each side be enough for the longarm machine? I have plenty of length, that dimension isn't a problem.</p><p>Also — if I add a 2&quot; border all the way around, bringing the width to 38&quot;, I'd only have about two inches of margin on each side. I was thinking of cutting a couple of panels and stitching them onto the sides to bring that up to six inches each, then trimming them off after quilting. I'd have to stitch them in vertically. I'm trying not to buy wideback fabric unless I truly need it, and I have a lot of this 43–44&quot; Riley Blake yardage for length, just not width.</p><p style="color:inherit;">— Kathryn</p><hr style="color:inherit;"/><p style="color:inherit;"><strong><br>Dear Kathryn,</strong></p><p style="color:inherit;">Short answer: your original 34&quot; quilt works as-is. For the bordered version at 38&quot;, you've got three solid options, pick whichever fits your needs, and I'll walk through why each works below.</p><p style="color:inherit;"><strong>Your 34&quot; quilt: no changes needed</strong></p><p style="color:inherit;">5&quot; of margin per side is the standard minimum, and that's exactly what you've got: 44&quot; minus 34&quot; is 10&quot; total, 5&quot; per side.</p><p style="color:inherit;">Why margin matters: it gives the fabric a wide, even bed of tension while quilting. Skip it, and the vertical borders risk stretching, especially if the quilter needs to ease in any fullness. How much risk depends on the fabric, in my experience muslin, Minky, Kona, Moda, Pepper Cotton, and AGF all behave differently under tension, so there's no single number that predicts exact stretch. What's consistent: it's not worth risking over a few inches of fabric.</p><p style="color:inherit;"><strong>Your bordered quilt (38&quot;): three options for backing</strong></p><p><strong><span style="color:rgb(232, 132, 158);">Option 1:</span><span style="color:inherit;"> Sew two lengths of yardage together.</span></strong><span style="color:inherit;"> Stitch two 43–44&quot; lengths along the selvage, about 1&quot; from the edge. Trimming that seam's selvage afterward is optional. Leave a ½&quot; minimum seam allowance and press it to one side so the seam lies flat and won't pop open if the quilt gets heavy use.</span></p><p><strong><span style="color:rgb(232, 132, 158);">Option 2</span><span style="color:inherit;">: Wideback.</span></strong><span style="color:inherit;"> No piecing, no seam to manage, a good choice once a quilt outgrows what a single standard-width piece can cover with adequate margin.</span></p><p style="color:inherit;"><em>Backing prep for options 1 &amp; 2 (no squaring needed):</em> provide at least 10&quot; of extra width beyond the quilt top, a little more if your cut tends to run wonky. Separately, if you rip the fabric to straighten it, tearing rather than cutting, that process can fray the edge by about 1&quot; on each side, so add 2&quot; more: 12&quot; wider than your quilt top instead of 10&quot;. Also provide 11&quot; of extra height, 4&quot; on the bottom, 7&quot; on top. The extra height lets the longarmer square the backing as it rolls onto the take-up bar, before clamping the top edge in place.</p><p style="color:inherit;"><em>Load direction:</em> selvages run horizontally, East to West, parallel to the frame.</p><p><strong><span style="color:rgb(232, 132, 158);">Option 3:</span><span style="color:inherit;"> Small quilts running selvages perpendicular to the frame.</span></strong><span style="color:inherit;"> At 38&quot; wide, your margins are only 3&quot; per side, so this option gets you there without piecing. Cut a single, unpieced 44&quot;-wide length, sized at your quilt top's height plus 11&quot;, or more if squaring that fabric is a challenge. This loads with the selvages running vertically, North to South, along the East and West sides, instead of the usual horizontal orientation. It's viable because your quilt is small, here's what to know:</span></p><ul><li><span style="font-size:14px;">Load direction:</span><span style="font-size:14px;"> selvages run vertically, North to South, perpendicular to the frame. Selvage is a tight, non-stretch edge, so it acts as a built-in tension bar on the sides, doing the job extra margin would otherwise do.</span></li><li><span style="font-size:14px;">Tension testing: longarmers test tension in the margins, using fabric similar to, or the same as, your quilt top, laid over the exposed batting and backing. Send a separate test strip, about 15&quot; x 43/44&quot; of backing and 5&quot; x 10–15&quot; of quilt top fabric, in case your longarmer needs a sample to test, fabric qualities vary as much as we covered above.</span></li><li><span style="font-size:14px;">Squaring: square the bottom edge to a true 90 degrees relative to the selvages, and add 11&quot; of height beyond your quilt top. Square the top too, and that drops the backing height requirement to 8&quot; more than your quilt top.</span></li><li><span style="font-size:14px;"><span style="background-color:rgb(234, 234, 4);">One catch:</span> this only works with non-directional prints. Rotating the fabric this way also rotates any printed pattern, so a directional print will run sideways. If your backing has a directional print, use option 1 or 2 instead.</span></li></ul><p style="color:inherit;">Whichever option you choose, never trim off the selvages around the backing's perimeter. Having selvages that run perfectly parallel to the bar ensures your backing is almost perfectly even from side to side. Worried about sending more fabric than needed? Just ask your longarmer to return the leftover backing. And if your backing needs a specific loading direction, say so upfront.</p><p style="color:inherit;"><strong>Last resort: side-strips</strong></p><p style="color:inherit;">Stitching narrow strips onto the sides creates vertical seams right alongside the border you're trying to protect. Vertical seams can invite tension inconsistencies and puckering if not monitored closely while quilting, depending on the fabric. To compensate, a longarmer sometimes has to gently put pressure on the quilt mid-stitch to keep the backing from puckering underneath, which can throw off pattern alignment. This is especially tricky for free-motion quilting, since we only have two hands.</p><p style="color:inherit;">If you do add strips at the edges to extend width, leave at least 3&quot; of clearance for baby or lap quilts, four to five inches for larger ones. It also helps to load the quilt top onto the bar rather than floating it, to prevent the quilt from shifting causing it to quilt over the backing seams.</p><p style="color:inherit;"><strong>Bottom line</strong></p><p style="color:inherit;">Your 38&quot; quilt top works with any of the three options above. If you go with option 3, confirm with your longarmer ahead of time that she's on board. Always leave ample height for loading on the frame, and send a strip of fabric matching your quilt top so she can test tension accurately before she starts.</p><p style="color:inherit;">Quilt on.</p><p style="color:inherit;"><strong>— Cowgirl Crafty</strong></p></h1></div>
</div></div></div></div></div></div> ]]></content:encoded><pubDate>Thu, 02 Jul 2026 12:34:16 -0700</pubDate></item><item><title><![CDATA[Introducing Cowgirl Crafty]]></title><link>https://cowgirlcrafty.com/blogs/post/introducing-cowgirlcrafty</link><description><![CDATA[<img align="left" hspace="5" src="https://cowgirlcrafty.com/hero/cowgirlcrafty-logo-ah-handdrawn-art.png"/>The story behind Cowgirl Crafty, from quilt shows to pattern design, told by the human behind the hand-drawn stitching patterns–#IRL.]]></description><content:encoded><![CDATA[
<div class="zpcontent-container blogpost-container "><div data-element-id="elm_DJ27c0rtRgq6jf9B_Qyvlw" data-element-type="section" class="zpsection "><style type="text/css"></style><div class="zpcontainer"><div data-element-id="elm_Fz7lCzbUQqmuRWAKspa-fg" data-element-type="row" class="zprow zpalign-items- zpjustify-content- "><style type="text/css"></style><div data-element-id="elm_FnmvXfPdRsGmX4TG5bIzSg" data-element-type="column" class="zpelem-col zpcol-12 zpcol-md-12 zpcol-sm-12 zpalign-self- "><style type="text/css"></style><div data-element-id="elm_nOLRbONVkZ-fwB5ZsbzZKg" data-element-type="image" class="zpelement zpelem-image "><style> @media (min-width: 992px) { [data-element-id="elm_nOLRbONVkZ-fwB5ZsbzZKg"] .zpimage-container figure img { width: 200px ; height: 200.00px ; } } </style><div data-caption-color="" data-size-tablet="" data-size-mobile="" data-align="center" data-tablet-image-separate="false" data-mobile-image-separate="false" class="zpimage-container zpimage-align-center zpimage-tablet-align-center zpimage-mobile-align-center zpimage-size-small zpimage-tablet-fallback-fit zpimage-mobile-fallback-fit hb-lightbox " data-lightbox-options="
                type:fullscreen,
                theme:dark"><figure role="none" class="zpimage-data-ref"><a class="zpimage-anchor" style="cursor:pointer;" href="javascript:;"><picture><img class="zpimage zpimage-style-none zpimage-space-none " src='https://cdn1.zohoecommerce.com/hero/cowgirlcrafty-logo-ah-handdrawn-art.png?v=1782943328&storefront_domain=cowgirlcrafty.com' size="small" alt="Cowgirl Crafty Original Hand Drawing by Alana Hope" title="Cowgirl Crafty Original Hand Drawing by Alana Hope" data-lightbox="true"/></picture></a></figure></div>
</div><div data-element-id="elm_2I8YTejbl1ApSUSTQhxOzw" data-element-type="text" class="zpelement zpelem-text "><style></style><div class="zptext zptext-align-left " data-editor="true"><p>CowgirlCrafty.com is live, and yes, still very much in beta. Consider it an open studio door. You're catching this story in real time, and I think that's more interesting than waiting for everything to be perfect.&nbsp;</p><p>I used to dream about opening a brick-and-mortar quilt shop. Then I watched what tariffs and commercial real estate did to small retail, and I did some real soul-searching. Turns out, the dream wasn't the storefront, it was serving quilters and crafters in a way that actually lights me up, long-term. So the offering evolved. You'll still find me at shows with my pop-up quilt shop, but the online store is evolving into something simple: handmade, by a human. #IRL.&nbsp;</p><p>I'm a creator first, a bit of a mad hatter, honestly. When I'm designing something new, hours disappear and I don't even notice. My daughter (also my Creative Director) and I dreamed up this next chapter together, and we wanted a name that felt like exactly what it is: bold, a little playful, unmistakably us. That's how Cowgirl Crafty was born.&nbsp;</p><p>The heart of it: <span style="font-weight:600;">hand-drawn, computerized longarm quilting patterns</span>, designed in-house in California's East Bay.&nbsp;</p><p>Every pattern starts with pencil on my iPad or large XP Pen drawing tablet, sketched in professional illustration software then get finalized in industry CAD software. Once the patterns are pixel perfect they are exported into the full range of formats computerized longarm machines actually run on:&nbsp;</p><ul><li>ABM/Innova/.PAT&nbsp;</li><li>Bernina Q-Matic/.BQM&nbsp;</li><li>DXF/.DXF&nbsp;</li><li>HandiQuilter/.HQF&nbsp;</li><li>Inteliquilter/.IQP&nbsp;</li><li>PC Quilter/.TXT&nbsp;</li><li>Qbot — .PLT&nbsp;</li><li>Quilt EZ/.QCC&nbsp;</li><li>Side Saddle/.SSD&nbsp;</li><li>Statler Stitcher/.Qli&nbsp;</li><li>Windows Meta File/.WMF&nbsp;</li></ul><p>As a longarmer myself, I design with the longarmer's experience front and center: minimal overstitching, clear stitching direction, intentional composition so edge-to-edge rows flow instead of clustering awkwardly. Nothing is rushed. Every pattern gets the time it needs to actually be good.&nbsp;</p><p>Right now, things are beautifully in motion. The business is relocating, the product lineup is being rebuilt, and new patterns will roll out in phases over the next few months, picking up speed as we move into the fall. The first collection is already live in the shop, with more dropping regularly, so there's something to bring home now, with plenty more on the way. Over the coming weeks you will find our <a href="/sewing-supply" title="sewing supply" rel="">sewing supply</a> inventory being loaded in one by one. It's a long process but an exciting one.</p><p>All digital quilting patterns are handmade, hand-illustrated, and built slowly. On purpose. If you have a pattern you wish I would make, you can <a href="/share-ideas" title="share your wish here" rel="">share your wish here</a>.<br><br>If you're local, come find me at a show.&nbsp;<a href="/events" title="Click here for dates and locations" rel="" style="font-size:14pt;">Click here for dates and locations</a><span style="font-size:14pt;">, and if there's a show you'd love to see Cowgirl Crafty at, tell me. I'm listening. Also please feel free to leave a comment below.</span></p><p><span style="color:inherit;">Here's a peek at what's ready for your next quilting project:</span></p></div>
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        " sizes="(max-width: 480px) min(50vw, 320px),
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<div class="theme-product-details-area"><div class="theme-product-name-rating-price"><div class="theme-product-name " data-zs-product-name><a title="Abstract Meander E2E | Longarm Digital Quilting Pattern" title="Abstract Meander E2E | Longarm Digital Quilting Pattern" href="/products/absmeande2e-dgah/6201201000002185004">Abstract Meander E2E | Longarm Digital Quilting Pattern</a></div>
<div class="theme-product-short-description" data-zs-product-short-description> Inspired by water and the quiet rhythms of nature, this pattern is an artistic interpretation of the classic meander. Composed entirely of flowing curves, it allows your machine to stitch continuously without stopping for corners, creating effortless movement across the quilt. Scale it up for bold, open coverage or size it down for delicate stippling effects and beautifully dense texture. The design nests beautifully for edge‑to‑edge quilting, eliminating the need to flip the pattern and making setup simple and efficient. </div>
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<div class="theme-product-details-area"><div class="theme-product-name-rating-price"><div class="theme-product-name " data-zs-product-name><a title="Easter Egg Delight 1 Block Set" title="Easter Egg Delight 1 Block Set" href="/products/easteggdlt1-set1-dgah/6201201000001749005">Easter Egg Delight 1 Block Set</a></div>
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        " sizes="(max-width: 480px) min(50vw, 320px),
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<div class="theme-product-details-area"><div class="theme-product-name-rating-price"><div class="theme-product-name " data-zs-product-name><a title="Eve's Bunny Peter Motif | Easter Egg Delight Set 1-14 | Digital Quilting Pattern" title="Eve's Bunny Peter Motif | Easter Egg Delight Set 1-14 | Digital Quilting Pattern" href="/products/easteggdlt1-14-dgah/6201201000001755354">Eve's Bunny Peter Motif | Easter Egg Delight Set 1-14 | Digital Quilting Pattern</a></div>
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<div class="theme-product-details-area"><div class="theme-product-name-rating-price"><div class="theme-product-name " data-zs-product-name><a title="Elaborate Geometric Maze E2E Large 1 | Modern Longarm Digital Quilting Pattern" title="Elaborate Geometric Maze E2E Large 1 | Modern Longarm Digital Quilting Pattern" href="/products/elaborate-geometric-maze-lg-1/6201201000001747358">Elaborate Geometric Maze E2E Large 1 | Modern Longarm Digital Quilting Pattern</a></div>
<div class="theme-product-short-description" data-zs-product-short-description> Enjoy this modern geometric pattern for computerized longarm quilting machines. This is a nesting pattern that is meticulously designed to fit with the row above making the whole quilt look seamless. Allover edge-to-edge digital quilting pattern.<div><div></div></div>
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<div class="theme-product-details-area"><div class="theme-product-name-rating-price"><div class="theme-product-name " data-zs-product-name><a title="New Love, Hearts and Pearls Block Set 1" title="New Love, Hearts and Pearls Block Set 1" href="/products/nlovehrtprlset1/6201201000002025015">New Love, Hearts and Pearls Block Set 1</a></div>
<div class="theme-product-short-description" data-zs-product-short-description> Enjoy this meticulously constructed set of various block shapes for your custom quilt. This would be great for an heirloom quilt for a new baby or any occasion. The theme of hearts, pearls, leaves, and occasional diamonds add sparkle and joy to your project. </div>
<div class="theme-rating" data-zs-review-id="105089000000508235" data-zs-review-type="star-rating"></div>
<div class="theme-product-price-variants"><div class="theme-product-price"><div data-zs-pricing-container class="price-mask"><div class="theme-product-detail-price-area" data-zs-pricings data-zs-variant-id="6201201000002025015"><span class="theme-product-price" data-zs-selling-price="45.0" data-zs-currency-code="USD"> $45.00 </span></div>
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</div> ]]></content:encoded><pubDate>Fri, 26 Jun 2026 07:08:00 -0700</pubDate></item><item><title><![CDATA[What Growing Up Wild Taught Me About Making Things]]></title><link>https://cowgirlcrafty.com/blogs/post/growing-up-wild</link><description><![CDATA[<img align="left" hspace="5" src="https://cowgirlcrafty.com/hero/cowgirl-crafty-cow-handdrawn.png?v=1782432437"/>A feral West Marin childhood, mountain lions, moonlit cliffs, a pony named Sundance, and a lifetime of looking closely, and what it has to do with Cowgirl Crafty.]]></description><content:encoded><![CDATA[
<div class="zpcontent-container blogpost-container "><div data-element-id="elm_nTyMj0T6R7SGNGRhQ4QXzw" data-element-type="section" class="zpsection "><style type="text/css"></style><div class="zpcontainer"><div data-element-id="elm_fo0-nWk_R06ts-UzCRZy8g" data-element-type="row" class="zprow zpalign-items- zpjustify-content- "><style type="text/css"></style><div data-element-id="elm__S0-Flg_Qbykxmj2rR1_FQ" data-element-type="column" class="zpelem-col zpcol-12 zpcol-md-12 zpcol-sm-12 zpalign-self- "><style type="text/css"></style><div data-element-id="elm_H8QzHwMsFAYP6hqhe0st7A" data-element-type="image" class="zpelement zpelem-image "><style> @media (min-width: 992px) { [data-element-id="elm_H8QzHwMsFAYP6hqhe0st7A"] .zpimage-container figure img { width: 200px ; height: 201.50px ; } } </style><div data-caption-color="" data-size-tablet="" data-size-mobile="" data-align="center" data-tablet-image-separate="false" data-mobile-image-separate="false" class="zpimage-container zpimage-align-center zpimage-tablet-align-center zpimage-mobile-align-center zpimage-size-small zpimage-tablet-fallback-fit zpimage-mobile-fallback-fit hb-lightbox " data-lightbox-options="
                type:fullscreen,
                theme:dark"><figure role="none" class="zpimage-data-ref"><a class="zpimage-anchor" style="cursor:pointer;" href="javascript:;"><picture><img class="zpimage zpimage-style-none zpimage-space-none " src='https://cdn1.zohoecommerce.com/hero/cowgirl-crafty-cow-handdrawn.png?v=1782432437&storefront_domain=cowgirlcrafty.com' size="small" alt="" data-lightbox="true"/></picture></a></figure></div>
</div><div data-element-id="elm_l3Ws-BYxQ061x4j5w5CxNw" data-element-type="text" class="zpelement zpelem-text "><style></style><div class="zptext zptext-align-center " data-editor="true"><div style="color:inherit;"><p style="text-align:left;">People sometimes assume &quot;California girl&quot; means beaches, freeways, and a fairly ordinary suburban childhood. Mine wasn't that. During the years I lived with my mom, I grew up in small town West Marin, and looking back, the closest word for it is feral, in the best possible way.</p><h2 style="text-align:left;">The walk to the bus</h2><p style="text-align:left;">Most mornings started the same way: a mile-long walk through thick morning mist, down the road, past the cows, to meet a friend at the end of the dirt road and catch the school bus. The cows sometimes fell in beside me, a tight little herd keeping pace right along the fence line for nearly a quarter mile, like an unspoken morning ritual we'd all agreed to without ever discussing it. One thing they did almost every time, without fail: trot up to catch me, walk along for a while, then suddenly spook for no reason at all, bolt fifty feet ahead, and all stop dead in unison for a perfectly synchronized group pee. Every single morning. I never did figure out what set them off.</p><p style="text-align:left;">One afternoon on my walk home, the cows were clustered nearby as usual, up the road ahead in their pasture, but they weren't making their friendly jolly jaunt over to say hello. Hmm, they must just be feeling lazy today, I thought. Then, on the small hill along the road, I saw why: two mountain lions, each bigger than a grown man, lying in the grass facing each other like dogs settled into a down-stay. The cows were caught in an awkward, unspoken triangle with the lions and me. They seemed conflicted, wanting to approach but reluctant to cross the path of a predator, and stiffened into a vigilant stance instead. They kept one eye on the cats and one eye on me as I made my way towards them. The two lions watched too, as if I were the out-of-place creature to observe, as I trekked the open road with nowhere to hide from their gaze. It was a little unnerving, being stared at by that many pairs of four-legged eyes. Every step felt like it stretched into a full minute, and no matter how far I walked I couldn't seem to put any real distance between us. And yet I was in total awe, thrilled even, to be that close to them, wanting to savor every second of it for as long as I could, all while calmly getting as far away from them as possible. Those two strings of barbed wire fencing will protect me, right?</p><h2 style="text-align:left;">No electricity, no plumbing, no problem</h2><p style="text-align:left;">We lived more like homesteaders than anything else. No electricity, no indoor plumbing. My childhood happened almost entirely outside, running wild in the wind like a feral cat who'd simply decided the outdoors was home. We had chickens and a rabbit. My mom's then-boyfriend's kids, who I'd come to think of as my own brother and sister, and I swam in the pond among the pollywogs and cattails. I was seven, the girl was eight, the boy maybe five.</p><p style="text-align:left;">When I was eight, my mom and I moved to a different part of the land, and that's when I truly discovered the wonder of the sky. There was no light pollution, no sound of cars. I'd lie in bed and smile listening to the coyotes chatter and play somewhere out in the dark. Other nights, out under the Milky Way so clear it felt endless, I'd stare up at it half-convinced if I looked long enough something would finally beam me up for a little galaxy-exploring vacay. I was an enthusiastic, willing participant in that fantasy. To this day, I credit a solid decade of Star Trek: The Next Generation reruns with teaching me most of what I know about office politics.</p><p style="text-align:left;">That sky also gave me VIP seats to its own light shows. The vantage overlooked three bodies of water, the lagoon, the SF Bay, and the Farallon Islands decorating the Pacific beyond them. I saw more shooting stars than I can count, including one that was very large, looking like something big enough to actually be hitting the atmosphere, then decorating the sky with a sparkling firework display as it traveled from the meridian down to the horizon. And then there was the one that looked exactly like a shooting star, same size, same white point of light, just moving faster than any shooting star should, up above Mount Tam. Too fast for a plane, too high for anything else. It traveled the normal distance, then cut a sharp angle and kept going, no speed lost at all. I kid you not, I was a young adult by then, not a kid with an overactive imagination, and I genuinely don't know what that was. I wasn't on anything, I promise. Don't ask, because my mind absolutely could go there.</p><h2 style="text-align:left;">Cliff surfing under a full moon</h2><p style="text-align:left;">One of my favorite things to do was cliff surfing on a full moon, when the moonlight was so bright it turned the whole coastline almost iridescent, like a second, quieter kind of daylight. There's a particular kind of excitement in that light, the urge to be out in it, exploring the seaside with nothing but the ocean's roaring, pounding rhythm as the soundtrack to the whoops and laughter with that rare friend who was brave enough to tag along.</p><h2 style="text-align:left;">Finding the road home in the dark</h2><p style="text-align:left;">I studied traditional Balinese dance in town, and at around ten years old, I'd find myself walking home afterward under a hidden new moon, nothing but stars above a stretch of pitch blackness all around me to guide the way. I made a game out of it. One foot in front of the other, focusing in on what I could hear and which direction the curving road would take me up the cliffside, back to the house we were housesitting at that season. I think that's where I really learned how to find the fun in a situation that could easily have just been scary. Make lemonade, basically, even out there in the dark, alone, at ten.</p><h2 style="text-align:left;">Sundance</h2><p style="text-align:left;">I had a pony named Sundance, an overstuffed, out-to-pasture kind of pony who, looking back, probably wasn't the safest mount for a kid. I didn't care. Every day after school I'd walk up the hill to the stables, get him harnessed and saddled, take him for a ride, then come back and clean the frogs of his hooves, brush him down, feed him, water him. I loved every minute.</p><p style="text-align:left;">He was wild, and he knew it. He'd run under low branches or press up against fences trying to scrape me off. He was strong, and I learned to hold my ground, to find a kind of mutual understanding that wasn't quite obedience and wasn't quite defiance either, just two stubborn creatures figuring out how to get along. We were mostly just friends, in the end. That's where I really learned to respect animals, and the wildness in them, instead of trying to tame it out of existence.</p><h2 style="text-align:left;">Drawing before I could really call it that</h2><p style="text-align:left;">I drew constantly, every day, in nature, on anything I could find, long before I had any idea it would become a career. Even years later in high school algebra class, I was drawing on my desk instead of solving for x. Art runs deep on both sides of my family. My grandmother was the first woman to draw for Disney, working on Donald Duck and Mickey Mouse. My father was an artist at heart, never a working one, he chose the corporate route instead, but he could seemingly do everything: art, building a car from nothing but a bare chassis, playing any instrument he picked up. My mother's hobby was art too, and she made sure mine never stopped growing, she kept my hands full of colored pencils and paper from the time I was small, and I took to it with something close to obsession. I drew every day until I discovered painting, first acrylic, then oil.</p><p style="text-align:left;">Starting at fourteen, I rode an hour and a half up and over the mountain every summer to attend college-level summer programs in Fine Art at the San Francisco Art Institute, alongside adults twice my age. I also spent a summer at College of Marin studying drawing, composition, and poetry. My mother, a non-drug-using hippie who brought me to everything, took me to Fort Mason for nude drawing workshops, Bohemian May Day festivals, Renaissance fairs, street music, master art classes and master theatre classes scattered all over the Bay, and any number of multicultural experiences, Japanese Monkey chants, African dance classes from several different countries, and drum circles. The world really was my classroom, and the Bay Area was rich with culture.</p><p style="text-align:left;">By fifteen, during the school year, I had a whole other life after dark. On cooler, clear, moody evenings, my friends and I would head to the local Beatnik coffee shop most nights around eight, a three-piece jazz combo playing low in the corner, me in a maroon wool beret and bright red lipstick, sitting for hours with black coffee sweet enough to stand a spoon up in, reading Charles Bukowski's Play the Piano Drunk/Like a Percussion Instrument Until the Fingers Begin to Bleed a Bit, smoking clove cigarettes, writing abstract poetry, and doodling whatever stranger happened to be sitting two tables over. The faces with character in their lines were always my favorite to draw. That was me at fifteen, apparently.</p><p style="text-align:left;">My father, who leaned more yuppie-meets-Charlie Chaplin, pushed me toward commercial art, and got me my first job as a graphic designer through an apprenticeship where I learned to design logos and build art entirely by hand. In parallel, I taught myself how to apply everything I'd learned to typography and graphic design on the Mac. That foundation, fine art training as a kid, commercial design discipline as a young adult, became the base everything since has been built on, decades of professional work, including every pattern I draw today.</p><h2 style="text-align:left;">What it actually taught me</h2><p style="text-align:left;">I think a childhood like that teaches you something most design schools can't: how to actually look at the world instead of just glancing at it. The texture of fog. The particular way moonlight changes a landscape. The way the sun casts long light across the city skyline from the other side of the Bay. The way a stranger's expression at a coffee shop can quietly tell you the story of the long day they've had, if you actually stop to look. The patience it takes to earn an animal's trust instead of forcing it. None of that was abstract for me, it was just Tuesday. That same childhood also made me independent, resilient, and tough, and somehow friendly and kind right alongside it, because the world really was my playground, and the community was my extended family. I had friends of every age.</p><p style="text-align:left;">And there was always a beloved black cat somewhere underfoot. He was my buddy, and our bond seemed to fill a void for us both. We were feral litter-mates, in our own way.</p><p style="text-align:left;">That's the soil Cowgirl Crafty actually grew out of. Not a brand exercise, not a mood board, a genuine, lived-in relationship with nature and people, layered underneath real training in fine art and commercial design. They say artists who have lived make better art. I believe that, and I hope it shows up in the work, quietly, the way the best parts of a childhood usually do.</p></div></div>
</div></div></div></div></div></div> ]]></content:encoded><pubDate>Thu, 25 Jun 2026 17:22:56 -0700</pubDate></item><item><title><![CDATA[Why "Cow" Is the Most Important Word in Cowgirl Crafty]]></title><link>https://cowgirlcrafty.com/blogs/post/why-cow-cowgirl-crafty</link><description><![CDATA[<img align="left" hspace="5" src="https://cowgirlcrafty.com/hero/cowgirl-crafty-cow-handdrawn.png"/>The real story behind the name Cowgirl Crafty, a California ranch childhood, and what "Cow" actually means in the brand.]]></description><content:encoded><![CDATA[
<div class="zpcontent-container blogpost-container "><div data-element-id="elm_I0KjdqKqSe6mi9r2fyJcwg" data-element-type="section" class="zpsection "><style type="text/css"></style><div class="zpcontainer"><div data-element-id="elm_MCxOd1JwTvyx3TUqSa-GXQ" data-element-type="row" class="zprow zpalign-items- zpjustify-content- "><style type="text/css"></style><div data-element-id="elm_S0zibGs1Sr-O8ZDvauNX4A" data-element-type="column" class="zpelem-col zpcol-12 zpcol-md-12 zpcol-sm-12 zpalign-self- "><style type="text/css"></style><div data-element-id="elm_c-6T74CuwOcBdVxyAZFSAg" data-element-type="image" class="zpelement zpelem-image "><style> @media (min-width: 992px) { [data-element-id="elm_c-6T74CuwOcBdVxyAZFSAg"] .zpimage-container figure img { width: 200px ; height: 201.50px ; } } </style><div data-caption-color="" data-size-tablet="" data-size-mobile="" data-align="center" data-tablet-image-separate="false" data-mobile-image-separate="false" class="zpimage-container zpimage-align-center zpimage-tablet-align-center zpimage-mobile-align-center zpimage-size-small zpimage-tablet-fallback-fit zpimage-mobile-fallback-fit hb-lightbox " data-lightbox-options="
                type:fullscreen,
                theme:dark"><figure role="none" class="zpimage-data-ref"><a class="zpimage-anchor" style="cursor:pointer;" href="javascript:;"><picture><img class="zpimage zpimage-style-none zpimage-space-none " src='https://cdn1.zohoecommerce.com/hero/cowgirl-crafty-cow-handdrawn.png?v=1782432437&storefront_domain=cowgirlcrafty.com' size="small" alt="" data-lightbox="true"/></picture></a></figure></div>
</div><div data-element-id="elm_roZ4_oiMQn6UhqPg68VZvQ" data-element-type="text" class="zpelement zpelem-text "><style></style><div class="zptext zptext-align-center " data-editor="true"><div style="color:inherit;"><p style="text-align:left;">When my daughter and I landed on the name Cowgirl Crafty, we were giddy. It felt right immediately, the kind of thing that arrives almost like magic in the middle of a brainstorm. But the more I've sat with it since, the more I realize the word doing the most work in that name isn't &quot;Crafty.&quot; It's &quot;Cow.&quot;</p><h2 style="text-align:left;">Where it actually comes from</h2><p style="text-align:left;">I grew up in West Marin, right on the ocean, and we lived near a ranch. Most mornings I'd walk a mile through thick morning mist, down the hill past the cows, to meet a friend at the end of the dirt road and catch the school bus. Sometimes the cows would follow along in a tight little herd, right at the fence line, for nearly a quarter mile. There was nothing dramatic about it, just a kid and some cows, sharing the same patch of coastline before the bus came. But it planted something. Long before &quot;cow&quot; meant anything to a future business name, it meant calm, steady, unbothered presence. Cows aren't trying to be anything other than what they are.</p><p style="text-align:left;">If you didn't know, California, Oregon, and Washington are sometimes called the cow tri-states, dairy and cattle country running the whole length of the coast. I didn't grow up around cowboy culture exactly, but I did grow up surrounded by pasture-raised cows, an oversized pony named Sundance, and backyard chickens.</p><p style="text-align:left;">Funny enough, the cow theme followed me into the studio too. When I first got my Innova longarm, I set the row-finish sound to a deep, loud cow moo, just for fun. It didn't take long to realize the machine makes its own strange, alien moo-like sounds while it runs anyway. Apparently I can't escape cows, not even at the machine.</p><p style="text-align:left;">It started even earlier than that. Back in grade school, my best friend and I had a running bit where we'd randomly blurt out &quot;purple cow&quot; for no reason at all, and I'd sneak it onto the chalkboard the second the teacher's back was turned. Cow has clearly been trying to get my attention for a long time.</p><h2 style="text-align:left;">What it actually means in the name</h2><p style="text-align:left;">Here's the part I think is worth saying out loud: quilters, as a community, are some of the most refreshingly unpretentious people I've ever spent time around. Capable hands, sharp minds, more interested in finishing a project than in how they look while doing it. There's a kind of confidence in that, a quiet, unbothered, &quot;I don't need to perform for anyone&quot; confidence, that I think is genuinely rare, and worth admiring.</p><p style="text-align:left;">That's what &quot;Cow&quot; is doing in Cowgirl Crafty. It's not decorative. It's a nod to that exact quality–natural, grounded, and capable, without any pressure to just be something to look at instead of something to reckon with. &quot;Girl&quot; is there because we get to celebrate that on our own terms. And &quot;Crafty&quot; is there because craft takes real skill, hand, mind, patience, and a kind of problem-solving that rarely gets the credit it deserves.</p><h2 style="text-align:left;">A name that means something</h2><p style="text-align:left;">I didn't want a name that just sounded cute. I wanted one that actually said something true about the heart of the people I'm designing for, and about the kind of groundedness I've always found myself drawn to, in nature, in quilters, and honestly, in myself. Maybe that's why the name arrived the way it did, almost like magic, it was never really an accident. That's the magic behind Cowgirl Crafty.</p></div></div>
</div></div></div></div></div></div> ]]></content:encoded><pubDate>Thu, 25 Jun 2026 17:07:49 -0700</pubDate></item><item><title><![CDATA[Why I'm Already Talking About Halloween in June]]></title><link>https://cowgirlcrafty.com/blogs/post/why-talking-about-halloween-in-june</link><description><![CDATA[<img align="left" hspace="5" src="https://cowgirlcrafty.com/hero/haunthalle2e-dgah-hero-1200x630.png?v=1782259619"/>New Halloween edge-to-edge and motif quilting patterns. Book your longarmer now, slots fill fast, to have your quilt finished by October.]]></description><content:encoded><![CDATA[
<div class="zpcontent-container blogpost-container "><div data-element-id="elm_KRC7b0-iQb6YFrn-f4F1Rw" data-element-type="section" class="zpsection "><style type="text/css"></style><div class="zpcontainer"><div data-element-id="elm__9wcrotbTiylbSxm0R9LUw" data-element-type="row" class="zprow zpalign-items- zpjustify-content- "><style type="text/css"></style><div data-element-id="elm_I2qAqNCfTqqHyoZRKsYZvg" data-element-type="column" class="zpelem-col zpcol-12 zpcol-md-12 zpcol-sm-12 zpalign-self- "><style type="text/css"></style><div data-element-id="elm_Z6LRuo4NEBcA_Xe-uWZeQA" data-element-type="image" class="zpelement zpelem-image "><style> @media (min-width: 992px) { [data-element-id="elm_Z6LRuo4NEBcA_Xe-uWZeQA"] .zpimage-container figure img { width: 800px ; height: 420.00px ; } } </style><div data-caption-color="" data-size-tablet="" data-size-mobile="" data-align="center" data-tablet-image-separate="false" data-mobile-image-separate="false" class="zpimage-container zpimage-align-center zpimage-tablet-align-center zpimage-mobile-align-center zpimage-size-large zpimage-tablet-fallback-fit zpimage-mobile-fallback-fit hb-lightbox " data-lightbox-options="
                type:fullscreen,
                theme:dark"><figure role="none" class="zpimage-data-ref"><a class="zpimage-anchor" style="cursor:pointer;" href="javascript:;"><picture><img class="zpimage zpimage-style-none zpimage-space-none " src='https://cdn1.zohoecommerce.com/hero/haunthalle2e-dgah-hero-1200x630.png?v=1782259619&storefront_domain=cowgirlcrafty.com' size="large" alt="Halloween E2E Digital Longarm Quilting Pattern by Cowgirl Crafty " title="Halloween E2E Digital Longarm Quilting Pattern by Cowgirl Crafty " data-lightbox="true"/></picture></a></figure></div>
</div><div data-element-id="elm_Ghyv975I2cydrgMu8JXXFA" data-element-type="text" class="zpelement zpelem-text "><style></style><div class="zptext zptext-align-left " data-editor="true"><div style="color:inherit;"><p>If you make quilts for a living, or even just for fun, you already know the secret nobody outside this hobby understands: Halloween starts now.</p><p>Here's the timing reality. If you want a Halloween quilt finished and ready for October, you need it quilted well before then, and that means booking your longarmer now. Most longarm services book out 1 to 3 months in advance, and many close their holiday-season submission windows even earlier than that. Wait until September to start, and you may already have missed your slot. Think of it as Christmas in July, except for Halloween, the planning happens months before anyone's thinking about costumes.</p><p>So if you're piecing a Halloween quilt top this summer, here's what's ready for you right now.</p><h2>Haunted Halloween E2E</h2><p>This is the centerpiece of the collection, an artistic edge-to-edge pattern built with low overstitching for smooth, even coverage across the whole quilt. It's spooky without being cartoonish, more atmosphere than gimmick, which makes it a strong choice if you want a Halloween quilt that still feels intentional and well-designed, not just seasonal.</p><h2>Nightshade Nick</h2><p>A jack-o'-lantern motif with personality. Motifs like this are perfect for quilt blocks, sashing, or anywhere you want a standalone Halloween moment rather than an allover pattern. Pairs easily with free motion quilting if you want to mix techniques.</p><h2>Marty Jack-o'-Lantern Motif (1 and 2)</h2><p>A coordinating pair of pumpkin motifs, useful if you want variety across blocks without the patterns feeling repetitive. Two related but distinct designs give you flexibility for a quilt with multiple blocks or panels.</p><h2>The takeaway</h2><p>If a Halloween quilt is anywhere on your list this year, this is the moment to pick a pattern and get it queued with your longarmer, not Labor Day, not September. Right now. Your longarmer will thank you.</p><p><a href="/collections/halloween/6201201000002074121" title="Browse the full Halloween collection" rel="">Browse the full Halloween collection</a> to see all the latest spooky delights!</p></div></div>
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</div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div> ]]></content:encoded><pubDate>Tue, 23 Jun 2026 23:24:58 -0700</pubDate></item><item><title><![CDATA[How to Choose the Right Longarm Quilting Pattern]]></title><link>https://cowgirlcrafty.com/blogs/post/how-to-choose-longarm-quilting-pattern</link><description><![CDATA[<img align="left" hspace="5" src="https://cowgirlcrafty.com/Blogs/ABSMEANDE2E-DGAH_1-cowgirlcrafty.png"/>A guide to choosing longarm quilting patterns by density, cost, and style, from meander to modern geometric to artistic free-motion designs.]]></description><content:encoded><![CDATA[
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</div></div><div data-element-id="elm_qx3j5HJO-KXBFLvK9E5gbQ" data-element-type="column" class="zpelem-col zpcol-12 zpcol-md-3 zpcol-sm-12 zpalign-self- zpdefault-section zpdefault-section-bg "><style type="text/css"></style><div data-element-id="elm_U3ZIDaAGLfAj8wfKcKa2BQ" data-element-type="image" class="zpelement zpelem-image "><style> @media (min-width: 992px) { [data-element-id="elm_U3ZIDaAGLfAj8wfKcKa2BQ"] .zpimage-container figure img { width: 313px ; height: 164.33px ; } } </style><div data-caption-color="" data-size-tablet="" data-size-mobile="" data-align="center" data-tablet-image-separate="false" data-mobile-image-separate="false" class="zpimage-container zpimage-align-center zpimage-tablet-align-center zpimage-mobile-align-center zpimage-size-fit zpimage-tablet-fallback-fit zpimage-mobile-fallback-fit hb-lightbox " data-lightbox-options="
                type:fullscreen,
                theme:dark"><figure role="none" class="zpimage-data-ref"><a class="zpimage-anchor" style="cursor:pointer;" href="javascript:;"><picture><img class="zpimage zpimage-style-none zpimage-space-none " src='https://cdn1.zohoecommerce.com/hero/haunthalle2e-dgah-hero-1200x630.png?v=1782259619&storefront_domain=cowgirlcrafty.com' size="fit" alt="" data-lightbox="true"/></picture></a></figure></div>
</div></div><div data-element-id="elm_aLJvh6zPe6N-J4CfIc5oCw" data-element-type="column" class="zpelem-col zpcol-12 zpcol-md-3 zpcol-sm-12 zpalign-self- zpdefault-section zpdefault-section-bg "><style type="text/css"></style><div data-element-id="elm_QFjtoRIL0GO48T-44TCfUw" data-element-type="image" class="zpelement zpelem-image "><style> @media (min-width: 992px) { [data-element-id="elm_QFjtoRIL0GO48T-44TCfUw"] .zpimage-container figure img { width: 200px ; height: 197.89px ; } } </style><div data-caption-color="" data-size-tablet="" data-size-mobile="" data-align="center" data-tablet-image-separate="false" data-mobile-image-separate="false" class="zpimage-container zpimage-align-center zpimage-tablet-align-center zpimage-mobile-align-center zpimage-size-small zpimage-tablet-fallback-fit zpimage-mobile-fallback-fit hb-lightbox " data-lightbox-options="
                type:fullscreen,
                theme:dark"><figure role="none" class="zpimage-data-ref"><a class="zpimage-anchor" style="cursor:pointer;" href="javascript:;"><picture><img class="zpimage zpimage-style-none zpimage-space-none " src='https://cdn1.zohoecommerce.com/shop/digital-quilting-patterns/geometric/Alien-QR-Code-Geometric-Nesting-E2E-Large-nested-view.png?v=1774317133&storefront_domain=cowgirlcrafty.com' size="small" alt="" data-lightbox="true"/></picture></a></figure></div>
</div></div><div data-element-id="elm_L6BmWyAMTZaCbpvxbmLAAg" data-element-type="column" class="zpelem-col zpcol-12 zpcol-md-3 zpcol-sm-12 zpalign-self- zpdefault-section zpdefault-section-bg "><style type="text/css"></style><div data-element-id="elm_-sygFvZinNcwc6_R_KeLCg" data-element-type="image" class="zpelement zpelem-image "><style> @media (min-width: 992px) { [data-element-id="elm_-sygFvZinNcwc6_R_KeLCg"] .zpimage-container figure img { width: 313px ; height: 242.84px ; } } </style><div data-caption-color="" data-size-tablet="" data-size-mobile="" data-align="center" data-tablet-image-separate="false" data-mobile-image-separate="false" class="zpimage-container zpimage-align-center zpimage-tablet-align-center zpimage-mobile-align-center zpimage-size-fit zpimage-tablet-fallback-fit zpimage-mobile-fallback-fit hb-lightbox " data-lightbox-options="
                type:fullscreen,
                theme:dark"><figure role="none" class="zpimage-data-ref"><a class="zpimage-anchor" style="cursor:pointer;" href="javascript:;"><picture><img class="zpimage zpimage-style-none zpimage-space-none " src='https://cdn1.zohoecommerce.com/Blogs/New-Love-Hearts-CowgirlCrafty.png?v=1782436274&storefront_domain=cowgirlcrafty.com' size="fit" alt="" data-lightbox="true"/></picture></a></figure></div>
</div></div></div><div data-element-id="elm_ht1WGoAv-mOpTR9zC5h08w" data-element-type="text" class="zpelement zpelem-text "><style></style><div class="zptext zptext-align-left " data-editor="true"><p><span style="font-size:14pt;color:inherit;">Picking a pattern feels like it should be simple. Then you start scrolling through options and suddenly you're wondering whether you want something dense, something simple, something modern, something with personality, and the answer is usually some mix of all four. Here's how I think about it, and how I design patterns to make that choice easier.</span></p><div style="color:inherit;"><h2>Start with density, because it affects your budget</h2><p>Density is the biggest practical factor most quilters don't think about until it's time to pay the bill. A denser pattern means more stitching, and more stitching means more time on the longarm, which means more cost if you're sending your quilt out to be finished.</p><p>If you're working within a budget, a lighter, more open pattern will stitch out faster and cost less. That doesn't mean it has to look plain. A well-designed open pattern with good continuous curves can still feel intentional and finished, it just trades density for efficiency.</p><p><strong>Meander-style patterns</strong> are a great example of this lower-density, budget-friendly option. They're simple and nondescript by design, which keeps stitch-out time down and cost manageable. I have fun making these more interesting than the typical generic meander, working in artistic touches while keeping the round, continuous curves longarmers rely on for a faster, smoother stitch-out. You get a pattern that feels considered, not like a placeholder, without the price tag of a denser design.</p><p>If budget isn't the deciding factor, density becomes a design tool instead of a cost concern, which brings us to the next consideration.</p><h2>Use density to ease in fullness</h2><p>Denser patterns aren't just decorative, they're functional. If your quilt top has some extra fullness or puckering you need to manage, a denser pattern helps ease that fullness into the quilting itself, smoothing things out as it stitches. This is one of those details that matters more to the person quilting it than to anyone admiring the finished piece, but it's exactly the kind of longarmer-specific consideration I design around.</p><h2>Match the pattern to the feeling of the quilt</h2><p>Beyond density, the real question is: what feeling are you going for?</p><p><strong>Thematic patterns</strong> complement a quilt's subject directly, think seasonal motifs, florals, or imagery that ties into your fabric choices. These work best when you want the quilting to reinforce the story the fabric is already telling.</p><p><strong>Geometric and modern patterns</strong> give a quilt that clean, contemporary, modern-home feel. These tend to favor straighter lines and structured repeats, great for quilts headed for a minimalist space or a more architectural look.</p><p><strong>Meander-style patterns</strong> are the simple, nondescript option, useful when you want quilting that supports the quilt without competing with it. I have fun making these more interesting than the typical generic meander, working in artistic touches while keeping the round, continuous curves longarmers rely on for a faster, smoother stitch-out. You get a pattern that feels considered, not like a placeholder.</p><p><strong>Artistic, free-motion-style patterns</strong> are where I personally light up the most. These lean into a looser, almost graffiti-style free motion feel, more organic, more expressive, less rigid. If you want a quilt that feels handmade and a little unexpected, this is the direction.</p><p><strong>Intricate patterns</strong> are built for heirloom quilts or anywhere you want real visual interest up close. These take more time to design and more time to stitch, but they reward anyone who looks closely.</p><p><strong>Custom blocks and symmetrical patterns</strong> suit quilts built around structure, sampler quilts, anything with strong geometry in the piecing, or projects where you want the quilting to echo the symmetry already in the top.</p><p><strong>Holiday and seasonal themes</strong> (snowflakes, new baby motifs, and more) are exactly what they sound like, patterns designed around a specific occasion or season, perfect for gift quilts or timed projects.</p><h2>There's no single right answer, only the right fit for your project</h2><p>I design across all of these styles on purpose, because no two quilts (or quilters) want the same thing. My goal with every pattern, regardless of style, is the same: good continuous curves that stitch out efficiently, thoughtful composition, and a finished look that feels intentional rather than generic.</p><p>If you're not sure which direction fits your project, that's a completely normal place to be. Look at what your fabric is already saying, think about your budget and timeline, and decide whether you want the quilting to blend in or stand out. From there, the right pattern usually starts to make itself obvious.</p><p>Browse the current collection of <a href="/categories/digital-patterns/6201201000001742221" title="digital longarm quilting patterns" rel="">digital longarm quilting patterns</a> to see some of these styles in action.</p></div></div>
</div></div></div></div></div></div> ]]></content:encoded><pubDate>Tue, 23 Jun 2026 21:20:00 -0700</pubDate></item><item><title><![CDATA[Why buy handmade?]]></title><link>https://cowgirlcrafty.com/blogs/post/why-buy-handmade</link><description><![CDATA[<img align="left" hspace="5" src="https://cowgirlcrafty.com/shop/Quilts/cowgirlcrafty-farmhouse-quilts-1.jpg?v=1782433819"/>Why buying handmade matters: supporting local economies, real makers, and craftsmanship over mass production, one purchase at a time.]]></description><content:encoded><![CDATA[
<div class="zpcontent-container blogpost-container "><div data-element-id="elm_2PcgMvdYTFirBYF9jNHk4g" data-element-type="section" class="zpsection "><style type="text/css"></style><div class="zpcontainer"><div data-element-id="elm_fr7Y5W_JSGW9f9PgR5FGEw" data-element-type="row" class="zprow zpalign-items- zpjustify-content- "><style type="text/css"></style><div data-element-id="elm_W182DRpNQOO6k-J-zqHB2w" data-element-type="column" class="zpelem-col zpcol-12 zpcol-md-12 zpcol-sm-12 zpalign-self- "><style type="text/css"></style><div data-element-id="elm_gcVpN3r306r8w9T49aQXlw" data-element-type="image" class="zpelement zpelem-image "><style> @media (min-width: 992px) { [data-element-id="elm_gcVpN3r306r8w9T49aQXlw"] .zpimage-container figure img { width: 200px ; height: 150.00px ; } } </style><div data-caption-color="" data-size-tablet="" data-size-mobile="" data-align="center" data-tablet-image-separate="false" data-mobile-image-separate="false" class="zpimage-container zpimage-align-center zpimage-tablet-align-center zpimage-mobile-align-center zpimage-size-small zpimage-tablet-fallback-fit zpimage-mobile-fallback-fit hb-lightbox " data-lightbox-options="
                type:fullscreen,
                theme:dark"><figure role="none" class="zpimage-data-ref"><a class="zpimage-anchor" style="cursor:pointer;" href="javascript:;"><picture><img class="zpimage zpimage-style-none zpimage-space-none " src='https://cdn1.zohoecommerce.com/shop/Quilts/cowgirlcrafty-farmhouse-quilts-1.jpg?v=1782433814&storefront_domain=cowgirlcrafty.com' size="small" alt="" data-lightbox="true"/></picture></a></figure></div>
</div><div data-element-id="elm_FJwgxn0Q4CybgJif5JG5rg" data-element-type="text" class="zpelement zpelem-text "><style></style><div class="zptext zptext-align-left " data-editor="true"><p><span style="font-size:14pt;color:inherit;">There's a real cost to mass production, even when the price tag doesn't show it. Cheap manufacturing, overseas shipping, and warehouses full of identical inventory built the world we're used to shopping in. But that world has been shifting, tariffs, supply chain disruptions, and rising costs have made a lot of us rethink where things actually come from, and who's behind them.</span></p><div style="color:inherit;"><p>That shift is part of why I'm here doing this. So let's talk about what buying handmade actually means, beyond the warm feeling.</p><h2>It keeps money in your local economy</h2><p>When you buy from an independent maker, more of what you spend stays close to home. Small businesses spend differently than large corporations, they buy supplies locally, hire locally, and reinvest in their own communities instead of routing profit through a distant headquarters. Every handmade purchase is a small, direct vote for the kind of economy you want to see more of.</p><h2>It supports a real person's livelihood, not a shareholder's quarterly report</h2><p>Behind every handmade pattern, quilt, or craft is an actual person, designing, testing, refining, packing, and shipping it themselves. There's no team between you and the maker. When you buy handmade, your purchase has a direct, immediate effect on someone's ability to keep doing the work they love. That's a different relationship than handing money to a company that won't notice if you ever come back.</p><h2>It means someone actually cared about the details</h2><p>Mass production optimizes for speed and cost, not for the small decisions that make something genuinely good. Handmade work doesn't have that excuse, and it doesn't take the shortcut. When I design a longarm pattern, every stitch direction, every composition choice, every bit of overstitching I avoid, comes from caring about how it will actually quilt out, not just how it looks in a thumbnail. That kind of attention is exactly what gets lost at scale.</p><h2>It's slower, on purpose, and that's the point</h2><p>Handmade work takes longer because it's supposed to. Rushing a pattern, a quilt, or any handcrafted piece usually means cutting the very things that made it worth making by hand in the first place. Buying handmade means choosing quality and intention over speed, and giving the maker the time it actually takes to do the work right.</p><h2>It's a vote for variety over sameness</h2><p>Mass-produced goods are built to be identical, that's the entire business model. Handmade work is the opposite: every maker brings their own eye, their own style, their own quirks. Buying handmade is how small, independent, original work gets to exist at all, instead of getting crowded out by whatever's cheapest to produce at scale.</p><h2>Supporting crafters is supporting the next generation of makers</h2><p>Every independent maker who can sustain their work is proof that it's possible. That matters more than it sounds, it keeps the door open for the next person who wants to build something the same way: thoughtfully, independently, and on their own terms.</p><p>That's the world I want to keep building toward, one pattern, one quilt, one small purchase at a time. Thank you for being part of it.</p></div></div>
</div></div></div></div></div></div> ]]></content:encoded><pubDate>Tue, 23 Jun 2026 15:32:00 -0700</pubDate></item><item><title><![CDATA[How to prep for longarm quilting and save on costs?]]></title><link>https://cowgirlcrafty.com/blogs/post/how-to-save-money-on-longarm-quilting</link><description><![CDATA[<img align="left" hspace="5" src="https://cowgirlcrafty.com/Blogs/beige-quilt-wind-frame.jpeg?v=1770434503"/>The most economical way to keep longarm quilting services costs down is to do a lot of the auxiliary work yourself such as backing prep, trimming, and ]]></description><content:encoded><![CDATA[
<div class="zpcontent-container blogpost-container "><div data-element-id="elm_BcouJX_FQequ1xibnoT61w" data-element-type="section" class="zpsection "><style type="text/css"></style><div class="zpcontainer"><div data-element-id="elm_gjuMOcMKQPq9qhz_obwWow" data-element-type="row" class="zprow zpalign-items- zpjustify-content- "><style type="text/css"></style><div data-element-id="elm_eAFlL-ubQW2bNRkmgu_g4w" data-element-type="column" class="zpelem-col zpcol-12 zpcol-md-12 zpcol-sm-12 zpalign-self- "><style type="text/css"></style><div data-element-id="elm_yKqv59tqTkKNqqGiBWfB9A" data-element-type="heading" class="zpelement zpelem-heading "><style></style><h2
 class="zpheading zpheading-align-center " data-editor="true"><span style="font-size:36px;">7 tips for a smooth longarm quilting service engagement</span></h2></div>
<div data-element-id="elm__LEbxVfIR2GVHp759QYjUA" data-element-type="text" class="zpelement zpelem-text "><style></style><div class="zptext zptext-align-center " data-editor="true"><p style="text-align:left;">The most economical way to keep longarm quilting services costs down is to do a lot of the auxiliary work yourself such as backing prep, trimming, and binding. But that isn’t the only way to save. Some of the savings can also come from employing good quilting technique during the quilt construction process and quilting prep. Here are some things to watch out for when prepping to have your quilt top finished by a longarm quilter.&nbsp;</p></div>
</div><div data-element-id="elm_hsGOFJrOVT_8Ecx7AujiKA" data-element-type="heading" class="zpelement zpelem-heading "><style></style><h2
 class="zpheading zpheading-style-none zpheading-align-left " data-editor="true"><span style="color:inherit;">1) Prep your backing fabric</span></h2></div>
<div data-element-id="elm_aLiiNyQAzc9ZtIXdLrrs6A" data-element-type="heading" class="zpelement zpelem-heading "><style></style><h3
 class="zpheading zpheading-style-none zpheading-align-left " data-editor="true">Square or not to square backing fabric</h3></div>
<div data-element-id="elm_4YT5qILo16J_sgJsVZH0qw" data-element-type="text" class="zpelement zpelem-text "><style></style><div class="zptext zptext-align-left " data-editor="true"><p>Here’s a secret, this can be easy when you opt to not square it!! What size batting and backing do I need for my quilt top? Below is an example of how to determine what size batting and backing you need using a quilt top size of 50” wide X 60” high Quilt Top: Measure Width and Height Width = North to South Height = West to East.</p><p><br/></p><p>Tip: Leave selvages on! More is better and therefore it’s ok to provide backing that’s way taller than needed. We will simply roll it up on the backing bar and return any unused backing to you. Selvages also help ensure the back is perfectly straight.</p><p><br/></p><p>Batting: Add 6” to width and height so in this example the total needed would be 56” x 66”&nbsp;</p></div>
</div><div data-element-id="elm_0YmqANKdmoSaw-OxrYsaeg" data-element-type="imageheadingtext" class="zpelement zpelem-imageheadingtext "><style> @media (min-width: 992px) { [data-element-id="elm_0YmqANKdmoSaw-OxrYsaeg"] .zpimageheadingtext-container figure img { width: 377px !important ; height: 385.66px !important ; } } </style><div data-size-tablet="" data-size-mobile="" data-align="left" data-tablet-image-separate="false" data-mobile-image-separate="false" class="zpimageheadingtext-container zpimage-with-text-container zpimage-align-left zpimage-tablet-align-center zpimage-mobile-align-center zpimage-size-custom zpimage-tablet-fallback-fit zpimage-mobile-fallback-fit hb-lightbox " data-lightbox-options="
            type:fullscreen,
            theme:dark"><figure role="none" class="zpimage-data-ref"><a class="zpimage-anchor" style="cursor:pointer;" href="javascript:;"><picture><img class="zpimage zpimage-style-none zpimage-space-none " src='https://cdn1.zohoecommerce.com/Blogs/fat-stitch-longarm-quilt-prep-measurements-unsq-2.png?v=1770435007&storefront_domain=cowgirlcrafty.com' data-src="/Blogs/fat-stitch-longarm-quilt-prep-measurements-unsq-2.png?v=1770435007" size="custom" alt="" data-lightbox="true"/></picture></a></figure><div class="zpimage-headingtext-container"><h3 class="zpimage-heading zpimage-text-align-left" data-editor="true"><div><p>Backing not squared</p></div></h3><div class="zpimage-text zpimage-text-align-left " data-editor="true"><p></p><p>(Recommended) Add 8” to 10″ to the quilt top width and 11-14″ to the quilt top height so in this example the backing would be 61” x 74”.&nbsp;</p></div>
</div></div></div><div data-element-id="elm_WM9GU8U02jtj0zWH5PFIDg" data-element-type="imageheadingtext" class="zpelement zpelem-imageheadingtext "><style> @media (min-width: 992px) { [data-element-id="elm_WM9GU8U02jtj0zWH5PFIDg"] .zpimageheadingtext-container figure img { width: 408px !important ; height: 369px !important ; } } </style><div data-size-tablet="" data-size-mobile="" data-align="left" data-tablet-image-separate="false" data-mobile-image-separate="false" class="zpimageheadingtext-container zpimage-with-text-container zpimage-align-left zpimage-tablet-align-center zpimage-mobile-align-center zpimage-size-custom zpimage-tablet-fallback-fit zpimage-mobile-fallback-fit hb-lightbox " data-lightbox-options="
            type:fullscreen,
            theme:dark"><figure role="none" class="zpimage-data-ref"><a class="zpimage-anchor" style="cursor:pointer;" href="javascript:;"><picture><img class="zpimage zpimage-style-none zpimage-space-none " src='https://cdn1.zohoecommerce.com/Blogs/fat-stitch-longarm-quilt-prep-measurements-sq-1.png?v=1770435008&storefront_domain=cowgirlcrafty.com' data-src="/Blogs/fat-stitch-longarm-quilt-prep-measurements-sq-1.png?v=1770435008" size="custom" alt="" data-lightbox="true"/></picture></a></figure><div class="zpimage-headingtext-container"><h3 class="zpimage-heading zpimage-text-align-left" data-editor="true">Squared backing</h3><div class="zpimage-text zpimage-text-align-left " data-editor="true"><p>Add 8” or more inches to the quilt top width and height so in this example the backing would be a minimum size of 58” x 68”&nbsp;</p></div>
</div></div></div><div data-element-id="elm_dKijX2faCMD-VEzylUfTNQ" data-element-type="heading" class="zpelement zpelem-heading "><style></style><h3
 class="zpheading zpheading-style-none zpheading-align-left " data-editor="true"><div style="color:inherit;"><h3 style="margin-bottom:10px;">What does it mean to square my backing for my quilt top?</h3></div></h3></div>
<div data-element-id="elm_Aybca9NFDSMj02LFGBJ-BQ" data-element-type="text" class="zpelement zpelem-text "><style></style><div class="zptext zptext-align-left " data-editor="true"><p>Squared backing is when the fabric is measured and perfectly squared with four 90 degree corners in prep for the longarm. This can be labor intensive unless you use the ripping method from selvage to selvage and therefore not recommended unless you know how and don’t mind the effort.</p></div>
</div><div data-element-id="elm_YzwdqHNnrvcNdFtZeM-cpg" data-element-type="heading" class="zpelement zpelem-heading "><style></style><h3
 class="zpheading zpheading-style-none zpheading-align-left " data-editor="true"><div style="color:inherit;"><h3 style="margin-bottom:10px;">What if I don’t have wide back backing fabric?</h3></div></h3></div>
<div data-element-id="elm_eCFR6NkTuxLBdcVERO4PPg" data-element-type="text" class="zpelement zpelem-text "><style></style><div class="zptext zptext-align-left " data-editor="true"><p>That is ok! You can simply sew two lengths of regular sized fabric together. Be sure to make all backing seams horizontal (West to East).</p></div>
</div><div data-element-id="elm_LSqkvOO62KG3nANlZtm8Qg" data-element-type="heading" class="zpelement zpelem-heading "><style></style><h3
 class="zpheading zpheading-style-none zpheading-align-left " data-editor="true"><div style="color:inherit;"><h3 style="margin-bottom:10px;"><div style="color:inherit;"></div></h3><h3 style="margin-bottom:10px;">Do I have to iron my quilt top before providing to the longarm quilter?</h3></div></h3></div>
<div data-element-id="elm_0ElagfPDGuEFcwP82KkL4Q" data-element-type="text" class="zpelement zpelem-text "><style></style><div class="zptext zptext-align-left " data-editor="true"><p>This really depends. If you were ironing your quilt top seams as you went along during the quilt construction process, then there really isn’t a need to re-iron it. The rule of thumb is to make sure your seams are flat(ish) and there are no deep wrinkles that will struggle laying flat. One way to test this is to lay your quilt top across a bed to see if it lays flat. If there is a lot of fullness you can mist it with water to see if it will lie flat. Be sure your quilt top is completely dry before packaging up for your longarm quilter. Your longarmer can also gently mist problem areas on the longarm quilting machine frame to help.</p></div>
</div><div data-element-id="elm_UHVpRppv0vBl5K256fRugg" data-element-type="heading" class="zpelement zpelem-heading "><style></style><h3
 class="zpheading zpheading-style-none zpheading-align-left " data-editor="true"><div style="color:inherit;"><h3 style="margin-bottom:10px;"><div style="color:inherit;"></div></h3><h3 style="margin-bottom:10px;"><div style="color:inherit;"></div></h3><h3 style="margin-bottom:10px;">Do I have to iron by backing before providing to the longarm quilter?</h3></div></h3></div>
<div data-element-id="elm_3nfnYlWG8olC1HIZfvp40Q" data-element-type="text" class="zpelement zpelem-text "><style></style><div class="zptext zptext-align-left " data-editor="true"><p>With Innova longarm quilting machines, we get very good tension for the back of our quilts. This makes ironing backing fabric not needed unless there are deep wrinkles is common with wide back fabric cut from the bolt. The best way to combat this is to iron out problem spots before passing the material to your longarm quilter. Alternatively, she can iron your backing for you which will likely incur a fee, or gently mist the wrinkle at no cost. The downside of misting the wrinkle is that it tightens the tension where ever the fabric got wet. Your quilt will still stitch out nicely but if you concerned with having perfectly even tension on your backing, it is best to treat the whole backing uniformly. However it’s debatable whether there is any difference to the outcome so in most cases, a gentle spray of water works fine. TIP for longarm quilters: Beware of fabrics that bleed when misting with water. For fabrics that may potentially bleed, be sure to let each area dry before advancing the quilt.</p></div>
</div><div data-element-id="elm_QOWVja6MYM9hj7xoFIE-wg" data-element-type="heading" class="zpelement zpelem-heading "><style></style><h3
 class="zpheading zpheading-style-none zpheading-align-left " data-editor="true"><div style="color:inherit;"><h3 style="margin-bottom:10px;"><div style="color:inherit;"></div></h3><h3 style="margin-bottom:10px;"><div style="color:inherit;"></div></h3><h3 style="margin-bottom:10px;"><div style="color:inherit;"></div></h3><h3 style="margin-bottom:10px;">What’s the best way to piece backing fabric:</h3></div></h3></div>
<div data-element-id="elm_vJqGDi69vQnKcLQLJUaU_g" data-element-type="text" class="zpelement zpelem-text "><style></style><div class="zptext zptext-align-left " data-editor="true"><p>In the example of a 50″ x 60″ quilt top you would cut two 58″ pieces off the bolt and sew them together along the selvage. Depending on the fabric I recommend sewing 1″ from the edge of the selvage, then trimming of the selvage leaving a minimum of 1/2″ seam allowance. TIP: Iron seam to one side to help it lay flat. 1/4″ seams have more trouble laying flat so you will have a cleaner look with a bigger seam allowance. 1″ also works nicely. Now you will be left with one piece that is 58″ wide X 86″ tall. We recommend that you do not cut the height down to size and instead send us the oversized backing. We will return your excess backing to you with your finished quilt.</p></div>
</div><div data-element-id="elm_MlV6LUSjYyu9B0Lq_hhzgA" data-element-type="heading" class="zpelement zpelem-heading "><style></style><h3
 class="zpheading zpheading-style-none zpheading-align-left " data-editor="true"><div style="color:inherit;"><h3 style="margin-bottom:10px;"><div style="color:inherit;"></div></h3><h3 style="margin-bottom:10px;"><div style="color:inherit;"></div></h3><h3 style="margin-bottom:10px;"><div style="color:inherit;"></div></h3><h3 style="margin-bottom:10px;">What are the benefits of having a backing wider than 4&quot; on all sides?</h3></div></h3></div>
<div data-element-id="elm_cWOIY4qpt4qA-eBUkEVhVA" data-element-type="text" class="zpelement zpelem-text "><style></style><div class="zptext zptext-align-left " data-editor="true"><div><p>Depending on the quality of your fabric, having more width provides better stabilization and tension.&nbsp;</p><p>TIP:&nbsp;Send us in a couple of 4 x 6 pieces of scrap fabric you used to piece the quilt top to help your longarm quilter test the stitches on your specific fabric before getting started.</p></div></div>
</div><div data-element-id="elm_ciCv6PqTw2xm6tBlhPryPg" data-element-type="heading" class="zpelement zpelem-heading "><style></style><h3
 class="zpheading zpheading-style-none zpheading-align-left " data-editor="true"><div><h4 style="margin-bottom:10px;"><span style="font-size:24px;">Do quilt backing seams need to run North-to-South or East-to-West for longarming?</span></h4></div></h3></div>
<div data-element-id="elm_x7hKKDaR3nEQLJjjBRt20A" data-element-type="text" class="zpelement zpelem-text "><style></style><div class="zptext zptext-align-left " data-editor="true"><p>Backing fabric seams should ALWAYS run horizontal (West to East) when loaded on the longarm quilting frame. This will insure you have consistent tension for each quilting rows.</p><p><br/></p><p>TIP: Avoid vertical backing seams!!! If you have a vertical seam, experienced longarm quilters will try to rotate the quilt to load it sideways to accommodate. This doesn’t always work however depending on the quilting technique and patterns selected so it’s best to avoid vertical backing seams as a general rule.</p></div>
</div><div data-element-id="elm_U26bcGuR17Dr5kiYIDrjaA" data-element-type="heading" class="zpelement zpelem-heading "><style></style><h3
 class="zpheading zpheading-style-none zpheading-align-left " data-editor="true"><span style="color:inherit;">What if my quilt backing is not big enough?</span></h3></div>
<div data-element-id="elm_oPHtSxVFAcaQUJfHM_E48w" data-element-type="text" class="zpelement zpelem-text "><style></style><div class="zptext zptext-align-left " data-editor="true"><p>If the backing is not large enough to accommodate your quilt top your longarm quilter can sew on a leader. A leader is a strip of fabric that is cut to the same width as your quilt top by however tall that is needed. Being that there is cutting, piecing, and measuring involved, there will likely be a fee of approximately $20 per leader + any associated fabric costs needed. This is why it is always a good to provide an adequate amount of backing.</p></div>
</div><div data-element-id="elm_R-2XLilDF8ztFQs-cn5L-Q" data-element-type="heading" class="zpelement zpelem-heading "><style></style><h2
 class="zpheading zpheading-style-none zpheading-align-left " data-editor="true">2) Clean up loose threads</h2></div>
<div data-element-id="elm_g2E201Mzr27OKRXV-e11jw" data-element-type="heading" class="zpelement zpelem-heading "><style></style><h3
 class="zpheading zpheading-style-none zpheading-align-left " data-editor="true"><span style="color:inherit;">Does the back of your quilt top look like spaghetti? Does the top of your quilt have a lot of loose threads everywhere?</span></h3></div>
<div data-element-id="elm_t4x-wE3b6XeYQbFkvRCgAg" data-element-type="text" class="zpelement zpelem-text "><style></style><div class="zptext zptext-align-left " data-editor="true"><p>If so, this needs to be addressed before it can be quilted by trimming away all the loose threads. This can get costly if you are charged for the time it takes to clean it up by your longarm quilter. One of the best ways you can help your longarmer prepare your quilt top is by removing all excess threads, lint, hairs, etc from both the quilt top and back, and your backing.</p></div>
</div><div data-element-id="elm_EmJnTbJqzbAqnrpJTkTJEw" data-element-type="heading" class="zpelement zpelem-heading "><style></style><h3
 class="zpheading zpheading-style-none zpheading-align-left " data-editor="true"><span style="color:inherit;">What causes my quilt seams to fray?</span></h3></div>
<div data-element-id="elm_NbOE6tcA-8nKRRiQyseLRw" data-element-type="text" class="zpelement zpelem-text "><style></style><div class="zptext zptext-align-left " data-editor="true"><p>The simple answer is cheap fabric. It is a false economy to buy bottom-of-the-barrel fabric from Walmart, Amazon Etsy, Michaels, Hobby Lobby, Joann’s (RIP), etc. These stores are prone to carrying knock-off brands and/or low quality options. If you don’t believe quality is a priority, ask your self in three years time, if my quilt starts to unravel, will I wish I had spent the extra $10-$20 for quality fabric? Is it really worth buying “on-the-cheap” if it doesn’t last?</p><p><br/></p><p>This is why professional longarmer quilters strongly advise buying quilt fabric from reputable quilt shops that carry genuine brands whether brick and mortar or online.</p><p><br/></p><p>Having cheap fabric can also increase your longarming costs or at a minimum, cause your longarmer aggravation due to all the extra work this creates for her in having to trim all the erroneous threads.</p></div>
</div><div data-element-id="elm_b3Iow_CQboTpiPND4rH7TQ" data-element-type="heading" class="zpelement zpelem-heading "><style></style><h2
 class="zpheading zpheading-style-none zpheading-align-left " data-editor="true">3)&nbsp;<span style="color:inherit;">Avoid fullness and wavy borders during the quilt top construction process</span></h2></div>
<div data-element-id="elm_WMpDUNCLtIle1y69ydldEA" data-element-type="text" class="zpelement zpelem-text "><style></style><div class="zptext zptext-align-left " data-editor="true"><p>When working on patters that have fabric cut on the bias be sure to either piece them right way, or sew a 1.8 inch stay stitch an 1/8th of an inch from the bias edge to prevent it from from EXPANDING!! Yes fabric on the bias stretches, a lot. And with a pattern that uses a lot of bias cuts runs the risk of adding excess amounts of fullness across the entire quilt top. This is caused by a lot of handling of the cut fabric shapes over time. By taking a page out of the apparel construction book, you can preserve the intended shape of your cut without worry of it distorting. Below is an example of a problematic quilt pattern.</p></div>
</div><div data-element-id="elm_eiZ9l5xngdvcF7uuZFs6YQ" data-element-type="imagetext" class="zpelement zpelem-imagetext "><style> @media (min-width: 992px) { [data-element-id="elm_eiZ9l5xngdvcF7uuZFs6YQ"] .zpimagetext-container figure img { width: 500px ; height: 375.00px ; } } </style><div data-size-tablet="" data-size-mobile="" data-align="left" data-tablet-image-separate="false" data-mobile-image-separate="false" class="zpimagetext-container zpimage-with-text-container zpimage-align-left zpimage-tablet-align-center zpimage-mobile-align-center zpimage-size-medium zpimage-tablet-fallback-fit zpimage-mobile-fallback-fit hb-lightbox " data-lightbox-options="
            type:fullscreen,
            theme:dark"><figure role="none" class="zpimage-data-ref"><a class="zpimage-anchor" style="cursor:pointer;" href="javascript:;"><picture><img class="zpimage zpimage-style-none zpimage-space-none " src="https://cdn1.zohoecommerce.com/Blogs/fatstitch-longarm-quilting-feathers-border1.jpeg?v=1770437268&storefront_domain=cowgirlcrafty.com" size="medium" alt="" data-lightbox="true"/></picture></a></figure><div class="zpimage-text zpimage-text-align-left " data-editor="true"><p>TIP: If stay stitches were not used when using a pattern with a lot of bias cuts or your quilt does not lay perfectly flat they way you intend it, ask your longarm quilter to apply the borders directly onto the frame to avoid the dreaded wavy borders.</p><p><br/></p><p>TIP: For UFO projects stored in their block form such as the Pineapple block, a good rule of thumb is to check to see if it is still square before piecing. Fixes can include ironing the blocks to see if they go back into shape followed by re-squaring the finished block before piecing to ensure correct measurements. This will ensure your quilt lays flat for smooth longarm quilting.</p></div>
</div></div><div data-element-id="elm_CZPIGa2Q_eIeCZkgSZc2RA" data-element-type="heading" class="zpelement zpelem-heading "><style></style><h3
 class="zpheading zpheading-style-none zpheading-align-left " data-editor="true"><span style="color:inherit;">What does it mean to cut on the bias?</span></h3></div>
<div data-element-id="elm_GmHf9j-py6jrLwVgNEPH9Q" data-element-type="text" class="zpelement zpelem-text "><style></style><div class="zptext zptext-align-left " data-editor="true"><p>Cutting on the bias is when you cut your fabric diagonally to the selvages of the fabric (top and bottom of the bolt), otherwise known as the weft and warp directions of the fabric treads. The bias has a stretch to it and some fabrics are more prone to getting stretched out of shape than others. This is the majority of quilters prefer quality quilting cotton for its quilting stability. Batiks, as beautiful as they are, are one of the biggest offenders of stretching.</p><p><br/></p><p>TIP: When quilting with cotton Batiks, AWAYS stay stitch your bias edges. When using batiks on quilt borders, consider having your longarmer sew these on on for you directly on the longarm machine frame to avoid wavy borders.</p></div>
</div><div data-element-id="elm_gafIh-9hyhcy4VCwiwJECg" data-element-type="heading" class="zpelement zpelem-heading "><style></style><h3
 class="zpheading zpheading-style-none zpheading-align-left " data-editor="true"><span style="color:inherit;">What is a wavy border and why is it problematic?</span></h3></div>
<div data-element-id="elm_CIBH3yG84lzIBOabdgWCQA" data-element-type="text" class="zpelement zpelem-text "><style></style><div class="zptext zptext-align-left " data-editor="true"><div style="color:inherit;"><p><span style="color:inherit;">Wavy borders are just that, wavy, making them hard to quilt. Can you imaging trying to quilt ruffles to look flat without it pleating? That is sometimes what it’s like trying to address wavy borders. There are techniques a longarm quilter can use to try to “quilt it out” but this process can be very time consuming as well as a back-buster. The last problem quilt I fixed took me 18 hours of slowly easing in the fullness across the entire quilt for every stitch!! The borders were the hardest to fix and required nothing short of wizardry and tears to complete.</span></p></div></div>
</div><div data-element-id="elm_QCYJnTywBPnAd_h-3i--cg" data-element-type="heading" class="zpelement zpelem-heading "><style></style><h3
 class="zpheading zpheading-style-none zpheading-align-left " data-editor="true"><span style="color:inherit;">Techniques longarm quilters use to address fullness and wavy borders:</span></h3></div>
<div data-element-id="elm_IlJljbdbue2lfGthPtTHPA" data-element-type="text" class="zpelement zpelem-text "><style></style><div class="zptext zptext-align-left " data-editor="true"><ol><li><span style="color:inherit;">Mist the fabric with water to tighten up the fibers</span></li><li><span style="color:inherit;">Use a denser pattern to pull in the fabric more</span></li><li><span style="color:inherit;">Stand over quilt and ease in problem areas</span></li><li><span style="color:inherit;">Maintain good tension on all for sides of the quilt bed of the longarm machine</span></li><li><span style="color:inherit;">For extreme wavy borders, the best solution is to remove the borders and have the longarmer add them back on directly on the longarm quilting frame.&nbsp;</span></li></ol><p><span style="color:inherit;"><br/></span></p><p><span style="color:inherit;">The good news is that mild fullness can be put right and you will likely never hear a peep from your longarm quilter that there were any issues. A little bit is normal and not an issue for the experienced quilter.</span></p><p><span style="color:inherit;"><br/></span></p><p><span style="color:inherit;">The bad news is that quilts with excessive fullness can take 5-10X the amount of time to quilt. This means either the longarm quilter is working those extra 5-12 hours for free, or the customer will be charged an hourly rate. Rates depend on the individual policy of the longarmer so best to check with them to see how they handle issues. One thing to keep in mind is that longarmers’ schedules book up so you want to be sure you don’t get dropped from the rotation if you consistently provide quilts with a lot of fullness. At Fat Stitch we address problems on a case-by-case basis and to date have eaten most of that time to keep costs down for the customer. Luckily we rarely come across extreme cases.</span></p></div>
</div><div data-element-id="elm_XpCBdSSzOS_JMtXhIvwPaw" data-element-type="heading" class="zpelement zpelem-heading "><style></style><h2
 class="zpheading zpheading-style-none zpheading-align-left " data-editor="true"><div style="color:inherit;"><p>4) Ask questions–a longarm quilter is your quilting partner</p></div></h2></div>
<div data-element-id="elm_-wNo3D7FY3fs10REhabAxQ" data-element-type="text" class="zpelement zpelem-text "><style></style><div class="zptext zptext-align-left " data-editor="true"><p>Your friendly trusted longarm quilter will advise you on the best way to prep your quilt to save you on your machine quilting costs, and ultimately share tips and tricks to help you on your quilting journey. </p></div>
</div><div data-element-id="elm_R4lvW8d73kdtOdZrxdlTvQ" data-element-type="heading" class="zpelement zpelem-heading "><style></style><h2
 class="zpheading zpheading-style-none zpheading-align-left " data-editor="true"><div style="color:inherit;"><p><span style="color:inherit;">5) Opt for Edge-to-Edge quilting pattern</span></p></div></h2></div>
<div data-element-id="elm_C0roqRCIEAXLlYqfM_WRkQ" data-element-type="text" class="zpelement zpelem-text "><style></style><div class="zptext zptext-align-left " data-editor="true"><p>Custom quilting jobs look great, but they are labor intensive and take a lot more time to complete. Even adding digital quilting borders makes the job take 4-5 times longer with additional planning, pattern editing, and thread burying. Edge-to-edge digital quilting patters are a very economical way to get your quilt project completed and to significantly reduce costs. The pattern options are endless. At Fat Stitch we spend a lot of time on each project hunting for just the right pattern to accompany the theme of your quilt for the best outcome, even if that means buying new patterns on our dime. </p></div>
</div><div data-element-id="elm_zXXnsOCWLdffjoy2O6TCKg" data-element-type="heading" class="zpelement zpelem-heading "><style></style><h2
 class="zpheading zpheading-style-none zpheading-align-left " data-editor="true"><div style="color:inherit;"><p><span style="color:inherit;">6) Choose who does the quilt finishing</span></p></div></h2></div>
<div data-element-id="elm_kvLOtXcnIHH6EM3iM-5EmA" data-element-type="text" class="zpelement zpelem-text "><style></style><div class="zptext zptext-align-left " data-editor="true"><p>Other ways to save money after the quilting is completed is to trim the quilt yourself and bind it. Trimming is also referred to as squaring your quilt. This is an important part of the prep needed for binding. The longarm quilter can do this for you, or you can opt to do it yourself at home.</p><p><br/></p><p>Binding almost doubles the costs of quilting. By binding the quilt yourself, you will cut down costs considerably. On the other hand, many quilters abhor binding and prefer to have it done by their longarm quilter. There is no right or wrong approach, only what’s right for you!</p><p><br/></p><p>For quilts that were stitched with a border and B2B pattern or hand-guided (FMQ) can have upwards of 10 - 30+ threads to bury. You can talk to your longarm quilter about using the back-tack method instead, opt to bury the threads yourself, or pay her for this service.</p></div>
</div><div data-element-id="elm_N6Adoarsa_agVolxr2m0Lw" data-element-type="heading" class="zpelement zpelem-heading "><style></style><h2
 class="zpheading zpheading-style-none zpheading-align-left " data-editor="true"><div style="color:inherit;"><p><span style="color:inherit;">7) Determine who supplied the batting</span></p></div></h2></div>
<div data-element-id="elm_r6L3xnG6vSfJRsnvY_LtqA" data-element-type="text" class="zpelement zpelem-text "><style></style><div class="zptext zptext-align-left " data-editor="true"><p>Many longarm quilters prefer to supply their own batting. We have researched high and low to find you the best quality batting by reputable U.S. Manufacturers offering 100% natural batting free of toxic fillers, resins, and scrims. Also logistically storing and tracking bulky batting for every customer would get cumbersome and problematic. We store our batting on the roll in a clean environment giving you the best options for your creations.</p></div>
</div><div data-element-id="elm_Smhaku4HBVUesLHEeMkTXg" data-element-type="divider" class="zpelement zpelem-divider "><style type="text/css"></style><style></style><div class="zpdivider-container zpdivider-line zpdivider-align-center zpdivider-width100 zpdivider-line-style-solid "><div class="zpdivider-common"></div>
</div></div><div data-element-id="elm_cChoY1C5rre1Vb9k7bI_GQ" data-element-type="text" class="zpelement zpelem-text "><style></style><div class="zptext zptext-align-left " data-editor="true"><p>Fat Stitch is a family-owned small business located in Concord, California, USA.</p></div>
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